Crickets

Crickets are arthropods (i.e. invertebrates with an exoskeleton jointed legs, and a segmented body). They belong to the class insecta, which is characterized by having three distinct body parts: head, thorax, and abdomen.

Crickets undergo incomplete metamorphosis, meaning that the young (nymphs) resemble the adults. Crickets molt, that is, they shed their exoskeleton as they grow in size, a process which may take 24 months (depending on the temperature). The final molt yields a sexually mature cricket. Female crickets have a large projection called the ovipositor which they push into the soil shortly after mating to release an egg. They can lay several thousand eggs in a lifetime. Only male crickets chirp. They do this by rubbing one wing over the other.

Crickets are relatively easy to take care of, but, you should be aware that they require some effort if you want to keep a breeding colony alive over time! Since crickets hop, the container you choose should have a tight fitting lid (with breathing holes) or be tall enough to discourage escaping. Crickets cannot climb smooth glass walls but can chew their way through fiberglass! Large aquaria, glass jars or even buckets covered with mesh screening work well. Your container should be large enough to prevent overcrowding.

You may wish to line the bottom with sand or wood-shavings, but this is not essential. Crickets do, however, need a hiding place (toilet paper rolls, empty egg cartons, crumpled paper) and a egg-laying area (small container with moist sandy-soil, or a completely separate area for egg laying). Since adults may eat the eggs, you may need to remove the eggs regularly to a new container (keep it moist but not wet). Crickets are not known for their grooming habits: you will need to remove dead crickets, droppings and rotting food frequently. Also, plan on scraping the container at least once a week.

Crickets will eat almost anything you give them. Place small amounts of fruit or vegetable scraps and pieces of bread or dog biscuit in a small shallow container. Replace on a regular basis to avoid mold and smells. Malnourished crickets will eat each other up... You will also need to supply your crickets with water. Pieces of moistened cotton balls or paper towels work better than containers with water (crickets drown). Replace the water source at least once a week.

Ideal cricket-rearing temperatures (80-85F) are warmer than your typical classroom. Lower temperatures will slow down metamorphosis and insect activity, but will prolong cricket life-time. A light bulb in the cage may keep them warm if this becomes an issue.

Unless you collected your crickets outdoors, you should not release them outside when you are done with your project. Consider giving them to a classroom or pet shop with frogs, lizards or salamanders, all of which eat crickets